I'm In Love

This was a trip was long planned, long saved for and much savored. A full week’s vacation. A true vacation. Sun. Sand. Booze. No cell. No email. No TV. Seriously. This amazing gift of a trip took us to San Juan Puerto Rico, Vieques and totally randomly… Philly. But more on that later.

 

To begin. We’ve found love. Old San Juan is where I will retire and live out my days. No joke. It will happen. The attraction was immediate and mutual. The city is beautiful, vibrant, alive and full of history. There are gorgeous fortress walls covered in jungle greenery, and you’ve got to love a people that turn the front acreage of a military fort into a lawn to fly kites. The only hazard we encountered were low-flying bats and ripe mango bombs, which could attack at any moment. There were also little lizards and cats everywhere. Both cute in their own way.

 

The meal we had on the night of our arrival set the tone. At Aguaviva, a stylish, cool and trendy seafood restaurant we had fresh oysters, a hearts of palm salad and ‘camerones gigante.’ This was no exaggeration. Each of these camerones were the size of small lobster tails! 

We drank mojitos in alleyway bars. In fact we survived on rum and sangria, but there was nothing more refreshing than parcha (passion fruit) sorbet and pira aguas (shaved ice with fruit syrup poured over the top) bought from small carts on the street. Not a bad way to live.

 

As we walked around town we stopped wherever we found ourselves. At the National Gallery I found artists that I was riveted by like Myrna Baez and Rafael Tufino. At El Patio de Sam we munched on all sorts of traditional Puerto Rican fried snacks and met Maribel, a local waitress who took the time to talk to us candidly about political issues, excitedly about the culture of her people and to introduce us to the glory that is fried cheese with guava-rum sauce.

 

Our hotel, El Convento, was such a splurge and treat. I mean how often do you get a chance to overlook a cathedral on a hill while swimming and nibbling on cheese and grapes? One of the desk staff there sent us to an amazing local joint, El Jibarito we were treated to platters of carne asada, amarillos and rice plus a bunch of rum punch surrounded by locals. As an added treat the (quite handsome) waitress got whiff of a bachelorette in the house and took it upon themselves to whip off their shirts and turn the back room into a ladies-only strip club. It was so spontaneous and so hysterical we almost couldn’t finish our dinners through the laughter… almost.

On the way home from dinner we accidentally ran into what is an apparently a regularly occurring “Tuesday Party.”  As we flowed along with the crowds that filled the cobblestone streets, we found ourselves drinking shots of dubious origins and dancing along to the thumping reggaeton. The next morning we were a little worse for wear so we headed to the famed La Bombonera for breakfast. This diner serves up amazing pastries, homey breakfasts and simple, hearty lunches. After our veggie omelet with fries and a few mugs of café con leche we were right as rain.

 

When we weren’t roaming the streets and staring out to sea we were dozing, swimming and generally just enjoying the serenity that was our hotel. Our side trip allowed us quite a bit of time in the San Juan Aeroporto which was a wonder unto itself: a Cuban sandwich stand,Vienna wienies in the vending machine and Ms. Pac Man & Galaga machines everywhere. It was like when we stopped playing them in the early 90’s they all got shipped to the island. I also found a tostonera. It was souvenir I had been pining for but not picked up while in town.

 

Next on the itinerary… Vieques!

Comments

[Lydia (The Perfect Pantry)]

I fell in love with Puerto Rico, too -- it was so much more interesting than I expected, more rich in cultural diversity and music and, yes, food! We traveled all around the island, including the coffee plantations in the interior, and really understood why so many people who had lived their lives in the US retired to Puerto Rica. It's beautiful there.

[Cakespy]

Fantastic! I am so glad you loved Puerto Rico. My parents love it so much they built a house there! I have had the pleasure of having Thanksgiving dinner in PR (like the American one, but with much cooler side dishes and sauces!). It sounds like an awesome trip!

[EB]

Lydia-
I'm generally not a person who falls in love with places I visit. I understand I'm there on vacation and that that is very different than living there.... but Puerto Rico just hit me!

Jessie-
Ok you need to just let your parents know that they should be setting another place at the dinner table.... thank you very much... :)

EB

[Victoria]

How did I not comment on this? Oh, that's right; I'm working too hard. I guess so since it's Friday 6:19 p.m., and I'M STILL WORKING. Anyway, this looks wonderful - but Vieques looks beautiful. I want to have been on this trip and have this memory so I know where I want to go back to. I am thrilled you had a fabulous, overdue, well-deserved vacation.

[EB]

Victoria-

You are so sweet! And yes you work wayyyyyy too hard! It really was fantastic.